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Home Candy Making
by Mrs. Sarah T. Rorer (1911)
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Sugar Boiling
As sugar is the basis of candies, it is very necessary
that the manipulator should carefully study and
observe the different grades and qualities of sugar, the
changes which take place under different circumstances,
and its general behavior when mixed with other articles
during the process of manufacture. As the ways of sugar
are "dark and mysterious," I feel myself incompetent to
put the bright side outward.
The confectioner's art is ranked among the first of the
graceful accomplishments that belong to domestic
economy. The tempting dainties manufactured by our
first-class confectioners may be as daintily made by an
amateur, but it requires time, patience, and much
practicing. The greatest trouble with most candy
making is an attempt to make those varieties which
require the touch and skill of a professional,
consequently the work, on comparison, is unsightly.
The variety of candy called French cream, made from
white of eggs and XXX confectioners' sugar may be
pleasant for home manufacture or for church fairs and
special entertainments, but is by no means equal to that
made from cooked sugar.
The mere following of recipes in candy making will
not always insure success, as much judgment must be
used.
The knowing how to boil the sugar is the principal
point to which we will direct attention. There are seven
essential points or degrees to be studied.
First. The small thread. This is known by the syrup
spinning a thread when drawn between the thumb and
finger. The syrup then goes to the pearl, the blow, the
feather, the soft ball, the crack, and then the caramel.
When it reaches the pearl, the sugar has an oily
consistency and a large string may be drawn from the
thumb to the finger the entire distance that can be
opened. The blow degree can be ascertained by dipping
a small skimmer into the syrup and then blowing
through the holes; small bubbles or air bladders will be
seen on the other side if the syrup has attained this
degree. If, after the same trial, you give the skimmer a
sudden jerk as to throw the syrup from you, and it spins
in long fine strings, the feather degree has been reached;
at this stage the sugar is greatly inclined to grain and
great care must be taken not to give it undue motion if
you are going to use it for glacéd fruit or nuts, but if it is
for French cream candy it must be taken at once from
the fire. This tendency to crystallization is due to
evaporation of the water; there not being sufficient to
hold the sugar in solution, it naturally returns to its
former state; and for cream candy, unless the stirring is
done rapidly, the minute crystals will not be thoroughly
separated. The ball degree is next, and is ascertained by
rolling a portion of the syrup between the thumb and
finger in ice water. If a soft ball is formed it has reached
the proper degree for mint cream drops. After this
comes quickly the crack; now the syrup forms a clear
and brittle candy that will not stick to the teeth. The
caramel quickly follows the crack degree; at this stage
the syrup loses its clearness and assumes a beautiful
straw color. Take the vessel quickly from the fire and
dip the bottom in a pail of cold water or it will speedily
advance to a dark brown hue, and will then be useless.
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